The Journey is the Destination

By Rick Layzell | Photography by Clay Dolan

Spanning 386 km and 44 locks, Ontario’s Trent-Severn Waterway is more than a feat of engineering—it’s a scenic journey through a landscape of lakes, rivers, and timeless charm. 

Ontario is home to a truly one-of-a-kind experience: the Trent-Severn Waterway (TSW). I can state from personal experience that dreaming about exploring this beautiful slice of Canada is just the beginning—because living it is awesome! 

Following are just a few highlights of this incredible engineering marvel: 

• The TSW was an 87-year construction feat that began in 1833 and finished in 1920—imagine the equipment used in the process! 

• The waterway spans 386 km—that’s the same distance as driving from Toronto to Sudbury. 

• There are a total of 15 unique swing bridges along the system, and the two largest hydraulic locks in the world (Peterborough and Kirkfield) both need to be on your bucket list. 

• The adventure begins at Lock 1 in Trenton and ends at Lock 45 in Port Severn, with 44 uniquely glorious locks along the system (Locks 11 and 12 are a joint operation). 

Boaters approach Lock 32 in Bobcaygeon, one of the most popular stops along the Trent-Severn Waterway.

Hundreds of passionate personnel at Parks Canada are charged with overseeing decision-making and operational elements of the TSW. Their smiling faces wrap you in a warm, welcoming hug on each visit.

Parks Canada has done an incredible job crafting waterway experiences that inspire and attract both land and water-based travellers. Most lock stations feature picnic tables or seating areas perfectly positioned for viewing the boats, while others offer glamping experiences like oTENTiks (a cross between a tent and cabin, these raised platform shelters come with beds and basic furnishings for a hassle-free stay). The quiet and serene lock locations deliver a waterway experience like no other. 

The “Single Lock & Return” pass continues to be the top seller, and these users are typically day boaters—personal watercraft or pontoon boat owners—who are looking for a quick trip on the TSW. Whether they’re showing off the waterway to friends, visiting one of the countless attractions, or stopping to check out a local shop, the options are endless. 

Along the TSW, towns like Bobcaygeon and Fenelon Falls offer waterfront trails, shopping, and dockside dining.

Young’s Point (Lock 27).

And make no mistake: the TSW sees plenty of big yachts every year, and it’s not unusual to witness small boats nestled alongside 40 or 50-footers traversing up or down a lock chamber in perfect harmony.

Many locks are located in or near quaint rural communities, with local businesses embracing and enhancing the visitor experience. Orillia, Bobcaygeon, and Fenelon Falls are all standout towns with great shopping, restaurants, waterfront walking trails, and amenities—plus many more waiting to be explored along the TSW.

All vessels are welcome on the TSW, and events like Lock & Paddle in mid-July are truly special. During this one-day event, Parks Canada invites canoeists and kayakers to come together to fill the Peterborough Lift Lock. It’s simply incredible to witness this massive structure jam-packed with over 400 canoes and kayaks.

I’ve travelled the locks on personal watercraft, small runabouts, and now on our 34’ Regal cruiser. Each experience has brought its own moments and memories with family and friends. The summer of 2012 holds some of my favourite memories: my son Steven and I, along with his friend Luke, set off from Barrie to Port Severn for an overnight adventure aboard a 24’ jet boat. I’d rigged the boat with a camper-style enclosure, turning it into our floating tent so we could sleep onboard after a full day of laughter, discovery, and new experiences on the water. And we did it all—from learning how to “lock through” at Lock 42, to cruising along the Severn River (the house withthe authentic red CN train on the grounds is not to be missed), to hearing the boys’ voices echo as we were lowered down Swift Rapids—the deepest single-chambered lock on the system with a 47’ drop. We watched the expert staff at Lock 45 raise and lower the last lock on the system—by hand, no less! So many memories. 

The impressive Kirkfield Lift Lock (Lock 36), the second-highest hydraulic lift lock in the world, offers a dramatic change in elevation.

When we acquired our first cruiser, Meant to Be, in early spring of 2020, we intended to create moments on the TSW. I wasn’t really planning for it to be the weekend after we took delivery… but a mere six days later, there we were: four of us, heading through Locks 42 to 45 en route to Georgian Bay. I was jittery (aka nervous as heck) at the helm—as it was a much larger boat than I had ever owned—but the awesome Parks personnel once again expertly guided us into the locks and through the system. 

Parks Canada staff expertly operate the historic hand-cranked lock gates. Lock 38 at Talbot marks one of the final stretches before the waterway meets Lake Simcoe.

The Big Chute Marine Railway (Lock 44) is a world-renowned, truly unique lock that actually slings boats and lifts them up or down on a carriage. The photo moments from the bow as you, your boat, and your crew travel the 58’ rise or descent are simply stunning. Big Chute is the top land-based tourist destination on the TSW and has plenty of amenities including camping, washrooms, a delightful picnic area, overflow parking, and interpretive signage detailing the history of this one-of-a-kind lock station. 

Come by boat—any kind of boat—or include the TSW in your summer travel plans by car. Take a few moments to stop at one of the locks along the way and admire the boats heading up or down the system. Continue your adventure by exploring one of the incredible small towns nearby: sample cute coffee shops, local foods, and an assortment of craft beverages. 

The Trent-Severn Waterway is a truly unique and marvellous adventure to be shared and enjoyed by all. With 44 options, one or more lock visits should definitely be on your list—by land or by water. E